Champion Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Champion Dishwasher Troubleshooting From dishes to glassware, Champion makes some of the best and most durable warewashing equipment in foodservice. It’s line of commercial dishwashers features various designs, including door-type, rack and undercounter models. If there is ever a rare issue that pops up over the lifetime of your unit, below are helpful Champion dishwasher troubleshooting tips to assist you.

Champion Dishwasher Troubleshooting Solutions

Troubleshooting by Type

Click the models below for Championship dishwasher troubleshooting by type:

  • Door-Type Dishwasher Troubleshooting
  • Rack Conveyor Dishwasher Troubleshooting
  • Undercounter Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Door-Type Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Below are potential issues and resolutions for MD-1000HT, MD-1000LT, D-HB High Temperature, D-H1 High Temperature and D-LF Low Temperature models.

Machine or Cycle Won’t Start

  • Door isn’t closed – A cycle won’t start if the doors aren’t completely shut. Make sure each door is sealed shut.
  • Faulty door safety switch – If the door safety switch is broken, contact an authorized technician to repair the issue.
  • Faulty start switch – Contact an authorized service technician is the start switch is broken.
  • Main switch is off – Check the main switch disconnect.
  • Overload protector tripped – Have an authorized technician reset the overload in the control box.

Low Final Rinse Temperature

  • Low incoming water – See if the valve is clean and operating correctly.
  • Faulty thermometer – Check for a proper setting. If the setting is correct but water isn’t at the right temperature, have an authorized technician replace the thermometer.

Machine is Leaking

  • Chemical hose is leaking – Contact an authorized technician to replace the hose.
  • Pump seal is leaking – Have an authorized technician pump seal.
  • Pump hose is leaking – Contact your chemical supplier to remedy to the issue.
  • Leaking from the doors – Check that the doors are closed and sealed shut.

Water Splashes Out from the Door

  • Nozzles/end caps are missing – Replace the nozzle and/or end caps.
  • Wash nozzles are blocked – Follow the cleaning instructions in your operator’s manual.
  • Arms aren’t rotating – Contact an authorized technician to replace the bearings.
  • Door handle twisted – Adjust the handle accordingly or have it replaced by an authorized technician.

Washing Results are Poor

  • Poor detergents or dispenser isn’t working correctly – Contact your local detergent supplier to remedy this issue.
  • Food concentration is too high in wash tank – Make sure to pre-scrape dishes thoroughly before putting them in the dishwasher.
  • Dishes aren’t properly scraped – Check scraping procedures in the operator’s manual.
  • Wash water temperature is too low – See ” Low Wash Tank Water Temperature” below.
  • Wash arm is clogged – Follow the cleaning instructions in your operator’s manual.
  • Dishes aren’t properly scraped – Check scraping procedures in the operator’s manual.
  • Items are placed in the rack incorrectly – Check that you’re using the proper racks and not overloading items into the racks.
  • Equipment isn’t cleaned correctly – Unclog the wash sprays and rinse nozzles to maintain the right pressure and flow. Ensure that overflows are open. Make sure the wash water also is as clean as possible.

Motor Won’t Run

If the motor isn’t running, it’s likely tied to broken contactor or motor. Either problem will need to be serviced by an authorized technician.

Filling with Water Continuously

This typically occurs if the fill valve won’t close. Try to clean the valve and surrounding area. If the issue persists, have the fill valve replaced by an authorized technician.

No or Low Water

  • Main water supply is off – Turn on the water supply in your facility.
  • Drain/overflow tube is out of place – See if the drain/overflow tube is out of adjusted seated incorrectly. If so, you should clean, replace and seat the drain tube as needed.
  • Faulty fill valve – If the fill valve is broken, contact your chemical supplier or an authorized technician for assistance.

No or Poor Rinse

  • Faulty pressure regulating valve – Clean the rinse valve and surrounding area. If issues persist, an authorized technician will need to replace the rinse valve.
  • Pressure regulating valve is improperly set – Make sure to set the static pressure to 35 PSI.
  • Rinse nozzle and/or pipe is clogged – Clean these components with a paper clip and/or deliming agent.
  • Water line size is incorrect – Have an authorized technician change to proper size of 3/4″ NPT.

Low Wash Tank Water Temperature

  • Incoming water temperature is too low – Check if the incoming water supply temperature is too low. Adjust temperature accordingly to 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius).
  • Faulty thermometer – Have the thermometer checked or replaced by an authorized technician.
  • Faulty solenoid valve – Contact an authorized technician to check or replace the solenoid valve.

Wash Arms Won’t Rotate

  • Rinse nozzles aren’t clean – Follow the cleaning instructions in your operator’s manual.
  • Worn bearings – Contact an authorized technician to replace the worn bearings.
  • Low water supply pressure – Check the incoming water pressure and adjust it accordingly.

Poor Pumped Spray Pressure

  • Pray pipe or intake screen is clogged – Follow the cleaning instructions in your operator’s manual to clean either component.
  • Low water level in tank – Have an authorized service technician check the drain and overflow tube. The timer might have to adjusted or repaired.
  • Faulty pump seal – Contact an authorized technician to repair the pump seal.

Rack Conveyor Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Below are potential issues and resolutions for E-Series Single-Tank 44, Single-Tank w/ Prewash 66 PW and Two-Tank w/ Prewash 64 models.

Dishwasher Won’t Run

  • Door isn’t closed – Check that the door is sealed shut. You may have to have it adjusted by an authorized technician if it won’t close completely.
  • Dishwasher is off – Turn the dishwasher’s power back on.
  • Main power is off – Contact an authorized technician to check or replace the breaker on the dishwasher’s panel.
  • Dish rack is inserted incorrectly – Make sure the dish rack is loaded correctly.

No or Low Water

  • Main water supply is off – Turn on the water supply in your facility.
  • PRV setting is incorrect – Adjust the PRV setting on the machine accordingly.
  • Solenoid strainer is clogged – Clean the solenoid strainer following the instruction in the operator’s manual.
  • Faulty solenoid valve – Have an authorized technician repair or replace the component.

Washing Results are Poor

  • No or insufficient detergent – Check that the proper amount of detergent is in the machine.
  • Items are placed in the rack incorrectly – Make sure the items are placed correctly in the rack or that the rack isn’t overloaded.
  • Screens or spray arms are clogged – Follow the cleaning instructions in your operator’s manual for these components.
  • Faulty thermostat – Contact an authorized technician to replace the thermostat.
  • End plugs are missing – See if end plugs are missing from the spray arms. Reattach or replace.
  • Water temperature is low – Adjust the incoming water temperature accordingly.

Wash Cycle is Too Long

If the dishwasher’s wash cycle is too long, the 90-second timer is likely broken. Contact an authorized technician to replace the timer.

Dishwasher Conveyor Won’t Run  

If the dishwasher’s conveyor is jammed or the table limit switch has stopped the conveyor, make sure to check the conveyor for obstructions. Clear the jams and remove racks from the load-end of the table. This should help the conveyor run. If the issue persists, contact an authorized technician to remedy.

Undercounter Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Below are potential issues and resolutions for UH undercounter models.

Machine Won’t Start

  • Door isn’t closed and latched – Make sure the door is shut correctly and fully latched.
  • No power to the unit – Check the main switch disconnect or plug the power cord back into outlet. Also, be sure the extended wash switch is in the OFF position.

Low or No Water

  • Main water supply is off – Turn on the water supply in your facility.
  • Fill hose is kinked – Straighten the fill hose. If the hose is damaged, replace it.
  • Low incoming water pressure – Make sure water flow’s pressure is 20-22 PSI.
  • Faulty solenoid valve – Contact an authorized technician to check or replace the solenoid valve.
  • Clogged solenoid strainer – Clean the strainer and surrounding area carefully.
  • Blown circuit board fuse – Have an authorized technician resolve the issue.

Low Water Pressure from Wash Spray Arms

  • Clogged scrap screen or spray arms – Clean either the clogged scrap screen or spay arms thoroughly.
  • Clogged pump intake screen – Clean the sump pump and pump intake screen, following the operator’s manual.

Chemical Won’t Feed

  • No chemical is in the container – Make sure to replace or fill the container.
  • Clogged feed tubes to and from the chemical pump – Clear the blockage and flush the pump with hot water.
  • Clogged screen on feed tube – Remove the screen and clean it. Reattach the screen when cleaned.
  • Clogged pick-up tube – Remove the clogged tube and clean it. Once the tube is clean, place it back on the machine.
  • Tubing is kinked or split – Restraighten tubing or replace it if worn out.
  • Blown chemical circuit board fuse – Contact an authorized technician to resolve the issue.

Washing Results are Poor

  • Water is too hard – If you have excessively hard water, contact your local chemical supplier for assistance.
  • Wash water temperature is too low – Raise the incoming water to 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius).
  • Faulty thermistor – Contact an authorized technician to replace the thermistor.
  • Faulty detergent injector – Thoroughly clean the tubing and pick-up tubing. If that doesn’t help, either the squeeze tube or injector motor will need to be replaced by an authorized technician.
  • Blown circuit board fuse – Have an authorized technician resolve the issue.
  • Items are placed in the rack incorrectly – Check that you’re using the proper racks and not overloading items into the racks. Reload the items correctly.
  • Tripped booster or wash tank high limit – Either high limit will need to be reset or replaced by an authorized technician.

Wash Cycle is Too Long

  • Incoming water supply is too cold – Raise the incoming water temperature.
  • Rinse sentry extends wash mode – This occurs if the maximum wash time extends for five minutes to let the final rinse water booster temperature reach 180 Fahrenheit (82 degrees Celsius). Resolve by adjusting the final rinse booster thermistor or having it replaced by an authorized technician.
  • Dishwasher operating in extended wash mode (UH230B, Only) – Push the “EXT WASH” button to exit the extended wash mode.

Water Drains from Wash Tank When Machine is Idle

  • Drain hose in the anti-siphon loop was removed – Redirect the drain hose without stretching it too much.
  • Drain hose clamp isn’t holding the drain hose in right position – Adjust the hose clamp to ensure the gooseneck is maintained. If it’s broken, have it replaced by an authorized technician.
  • Facility’s plumbing doesn’t provide correct air vent to stop siphoning – Contact an authorized technician or plumber to resolve.

For additional diagnostic tips or cleaning procedures, our full library of Champion manuals are available online to assist you.

Please contact a local authorized service agent who can help with these specific units and all your commercial kitchen equipment needs.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *