Whirlpool Dryer Error Codes If your Whirlpool dryer shows a light with an exclamation mark, this can have different causes: Check if the condensation tank is full. Is this the case? Empty it. If the condenser is dirty, clean it. Make sure you empty the lint trap after every dryer cycle.
Whirlpool Dryer Error Code Solutions
Whirlpool fault F01, F02, F03
One of the dryer parts doesn’t work:
- Hold the power button for at least 3 seconds.
- Restart the dryer cycle after the reset.
Whirlpool fault F04
Important in solving this error is cleaning the condenser:
- Turn off the dryer and unplug it.
- Do you have a condenser dryer? Open the hatch at the bottom.
- Take out the condenser and rinse it under the faucet.
- Put the condenser back in place.
- If you have a heat pump dryer, clean the condenser behind the hatch with a vacuum brush.
- Wait for about 30 minutes and reset the dryer by holding down the power button for at least 3 seconds.
- Restart the dryer cycle.
Whirlpool error F05, F06, F07, F08, or F09
One of dryer parts is malfunctioning:
- Turn off the dryer and unplug it.
- Open the door and take out your laundry.
- Wait for about one hour to give the heat time to escape.
- Insert the connector into the socket.
- Put your laundry back in the drum.
- Restart the dryer cycle.
Whirlpool error F10 to F24
These errors also indicate that there is a problem with one of the parts:
- Turn off the dryer and unplug it.
- Wait for about one hour.
- Reinsert the connector and restart the dryer.
Notification ‘change bottom filter’ doesn’t go away
If the ‘change bottom filter’ light doesn’t go away, check these things:
- The bottom filter and the lint trap are 2 different parts. The bottom filter is at the bottom of the dryer, behind a closed lid.
- When you clean the bottom filter, also clean the space behind the filter.
- When you’re done cleaning the filter and the space behind it, you can start a cycle, and the notification will go away afterwards.
| Error Code | Error Description |
|---|---|
| AF or F4 E3 Error Code | Restricted airflow: This error code suggests your dryer lint screen or exhaust ventilation is clogged or blocked. It may also be triggered by kinked, crushed, or poorly positioned ductwork. Your dryer needs adequate airflow to run efficiently. Restricted airflow may take longer to dry each load. Fix any issues with the vent or screen and clean them if necessary, then clear the error code from the display by pressing any key. |
| E# F# Error Code | Service required: When you get this error code, it’s not a problem that you can fix on your own. The control panel has a way of detecting internal errors that will require professional repairs. |
| L2 Error Code | No/Low line voltage: An L2 error code indicates that no or low line voltage is preventing your dryer’s heating element from turning on. Even when the error code is displayed, the dryer itself will still run. Most likely, this is due to a problem with your home power supply. Sometimes, a circuit breaker has been tripped, and the solution is an easy fix. If the error code continues to show, you will need to consult a qualified electrician.
|
| PF Error Code | Power failure: A power failure can interrupt the drying cycle, in which case the display will show a PF error code. Press and hold the “Start” button to reset the dryer or clear the error code by pressing the “Power” button. |
F1E1 – Stuck motor relay on the control. The only option here is a new EOC or electronic control board.
F1E3 – Wrong EOC installed. Double check the model number before ordering your new board. Always use ALL the numbers in the model number. The last number is the engineering version. Very important!
F2E1 – Stuck button on the user interface. Sometimes you can release the key, but the fix won’t last long.
F2E4 – User interface software error. This is an internal board failure and the only solution is a new user interface.
F3E1 – Exhaust thermistor failure. Check the harness from the thermistor to the control. Measure the resistance across the terminals and look for about 10K ohms at room temperature. It doesn’t have to be exact, but it should be close.
F3E2 – Moisture sensor failure. Check the harness between the moisture sensor and the control. Sometimes the connectors fall off from vibration or from someone accidentally pulling on them during dryer disassembly. Check for damage to the sensor.
F3E3 – Inlet thermistor failure. Always check the harness at the thermistor and the thermistor itself. Look for a reading of about 50K ohms at room temperature.
F4E1 OR F4E2 – Heater relay failure. Check the harness at the board and the heater.
F4E3 – Airflow restriction. With blocked or restricted air flow, clean and/or repair the vent at the back of the dryer. Also, check and clean the end of the vent where it exits the home.
F4E4 – Supply voltage error. The control senses that the L2 leg of the 240 Vac is below 30 volts. L2 supplies the second leg of the 240 Vac power to the heater. Check the house breaker. If it’s tripped, try resetting it and check the pigtail (power cord) on the back of the dryer and the connector. Sometimes the wires of the cord come loose, overheat, and break off at the terminal block.
Either leg of the AC voltage could be lost, but the dryer won’t turn on if L1 is missing. If everything looks OK, set your meter to high AC volts and check for 240 volts at the outside terminals of the terminal block. Check from neutral to L1 for 120 Vac and from neutral to L2 for 120 Vac. If the voltages aren’t correct, call a licensed electrician to troubleshoot the issue. Your dryer needs 240 Vac for normal operation.
F6E2 OR F6E3 – Communication failure. Loss of communication between the control and user interface. Try to cycle the power and restart.