Kitchenaid Dishwasher Error Codes To troubleshoot the error codes that come up when you run kitchenaid dishwasher service diagnostics, you need to understand what each error code means. Below is a list of various kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic codes and what they potentially mean to help you fix your machine.
Kitchenaid Dishwasher Error Code Solutions
Codes for HE Models
KitchenAid’s HE or “high efficiency” dishwashers signal errors by flashing the light next to the “Clean” label in specific patterns. When the machine displays an error code, the control panel is disabled until the problem is resolved.
The pattern indicates the error code by first flashing a function code, followed by a two-second pause, then a code specifying the problem. After a five-second pause, the sequence repeats.
Control Panel Codes
Codes in the first two function series indicate various issues with the dishwasher’s control panel. Code 1-1 indicates that the control board senses a stuck relay on the machine’s circuit board, while 1-2 indicates that the memory on the control board has been corrupted or damaged.
Try turning off the dishwasher’s power for five minutes, then turning on the machine. If that doesn’t resolve the error code, you’ll need to replace the electronic control panel.
Code 2-1 indicates that the panel has a key that’s stuck, while code 2-2 signals a complete lack of communication between the control board and the panel. If no keys work on the panel, or if the panel itself has been damaged in some way, the issue is probably the control board, which you can replace.
Thermistor Codes
Dishwashers contain an electrical resistor called a “thermistor,” which measures and controls the temperature. Codes beginning with “3” indicate a problem with this component or a part that’s connected to it. Your model’s technical guide should include instructions for testing the thermistor and its related component, the Optical Water Indicator (which detects debris in the dishwasher’s water).
Code 3-1 can indicate either a fault in the wiring or a failure of the thermistor or the OWI. Code 3-2 indicates a short in the thermistor/OWI circuit, while 3-2 indicates a failure of the OWI itself.
To repair these issues, first disconnect the dishwasher from its power source. Visually inspect the wiring for the thermistor/OWI circuit (consult your owner’s manual or a repair guide). If the problem isn’t in the wiring, the thermistor and OWI must be replaced.
Code 6-6 indicates that the water from the source is entering the dishwasher at too low a temperature. Check the water temperature with a thermometer first. If the thermometer reads less than 110 degrees Fahrenheit, and it’s not a problem with your water heater, you’ll need to replace either the thermistor and OWI or the electronic control board.
Circulation Pump Monitor Codes
Code 4-4 indicates that the circulation pump isn’t operating or at least isn’t registering as operational. To address this, disconnect the machine from its power source, then reconnect any loose wires and replace the wire harness if it’s damaged. If these actions don’t resolve the issue, replace the circulation pump motor.
Door Switch Codes
Function series five codes indicate problems with the door switch. Code 5-1 indicates a failure of the door to latch properly, while the 5-2 code indicates that the door won’t open.
For the first problem, try pressing the machine’s “start” button then immediately closing the door. Next, disconnect the machine from the power source and visually inspect both the latch and the attached wiring. For code 5-2, start with the visual inspection. As a last resort, replace the door switch.
Water Inlet Valve Codes
Codes with the “six” function prefix (other than 6-6) relate to the water inlet valve (and possibly the detergent dispenser):
- 6-1: No water inflow
- 6-2: Electrical problem with the water inlet valve
- 6-3: Suds or air in the water pump
- 6-4: Float switch in “open” position
Examine the water supply and the referenced components (i.e., check for suds in the bottom of the machine when there shouldn’t be any). If these measures don’t resolve the problem, you may have to replace the involved component.
Heating Element Codes
Codes with a “7” prefix involve the heating element. A 7-1 code indicates a nonfunctioning heating element, which can be replaced. Code 7-2 signifies a heating element that won’t turn off. If turning the machine off and back on doesn’t resolve it, replace the control board.
Drain Pump Codes
Codes that start with “eight” indicate drain pump issues, including a slow drain (code 8-1) and an electrical issue with the pump (8-2). To resolve, disconnect from the power source and inspect the drain pump and connective wiring. If that doesn’t work, replace the drain pump.
Diverter and Spray Arm Codes
Code 9-1 indicates the diverter’s position is unknown. To address this issue, turn off the power supply to the machine and inspect the diverter (the component that directs the water through the spray arms) and its connective wiring. The diverter can be replaced if the wiring is functional.
Code 9-2 indicates the diverter is stuck in the “on” position while 9-3 means the diverter disk is missing. Code 9-4 indicates a potential obstruction for the lower spray arm. You may need to replace the diverter disk or the spray arm.
Other Codes
Codes with the “10” prefix indicate electrical problems:
- 10-1: Dispenser
- 10-2: Vent wax motor
- 10-3: Drying fan
In each case, disconnect the machine from the power source and visually inspect the wiring.
Codes for Other Models
Other models indicate motor problems by a flashing red light next to the “Light/China” label, and electrical issues by flashing the red light next to both the “Rinse” and “Normal” labels. If this happens, your machine has activated the flood switch. Unplug the dishwasher from the power source and schedule a service call.
A red light next to the “Rinse” and “Heavy” labels indicates that the dishwasher isn’t filling with water as it should. Inspect the machine visually and remove any blockages.
Error Codes | Solution |
---|---|
1-1 | Stuck relay on the electronic control board |
F1E1 | Stuck relay on the electronic control board |
1-2 | Damaged or corrupted memory on control board. Incompatible software components inside microprocessor. |
F1E2 | Damaged or corrupted memory on control board. Incompatible software components inside microprocessor. |
2-1 | Stuck button on the user interface control |
F2E1 | Stuck button on the user interface control |
2-2 | User interface control can’t communicate with electronic control board |
F2E2 | User interface control can’t communicate with electronic control board |
3-1 | Thermistor/OWI sensor failure (The thermistor is the water temperature sensor, the OWI sensor is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water.) |
F3E1 | Thermistor/OWI sensor failure (The thermistor is the water temperature sensor, the OWI sensor is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water.) |
3-2 | Shorted thermistor/OWI sensor |
F3E2 | Shorted thermistor/OWI sensor |
3-3 | OWI failed to calibrate or the drain hose check valve failed, allowing dirty water to backflow into the dishwasher |
F3E3 | OWI failed to calibrate or the drain hose check valve failed, allowing dirty water to backflow into the dishwasher |
4-4 | Communication error between the electronic control board and the circulation pump motor |
F4E4 | Communication error between the electronic control board and the circulation pump motor |
5-1 | Door switch failure |
F5E1 | Door switch failure |
5-2 | Control detects door not opening |
F5E2 | Control detects door not opening |
6-1 | Won’t fill |
F6E1 | Won’t fill |
6-2 | Water inlet valve failure |
F6E2 | Water inlet valve failure |
6-3 | Suds or air are in the water pump |
F6E3 | Suds or air are in the water pump |
6-4 | The float switch is open |
F6E4 | The float switch is open |
6-6 | Incoming water is too cold |
F6E6 | Incoming water is too cold |
7-1 | Heating element doesn’t work |
F7E1 | Heating element doesn’t work |
7-2 | Heating element won’t shut off |
F7E2 | Heating element won’t shut off |
8-1 | Slow drain |
F8E1 | Slow drain |
8-2 | Drain pump electrical problem |
F8E2 | Drain pump electrical problem |
9-1 | Electronic control board can’t detect the position of the diverter disc |
F9E1 | Electronic control board can’t detect the position of the diverter disc |
9-2 | Diverter motor is stuck on |
F9E2 | Diverter motor is stuck on |
9-3 | Diverter disc is missing |
F9E3 | Diverter disc is missing |
9-4 | Lower spray arm error |
F9E4 | Lower spray arm error |
10-1 | Detergent dispenser failure |
FAE1 | Detergent dispenser failure |
10-2 | Vent wax motor electrical problem |
FAE2 | Vent wax motor electrical problem |
10-3 | Drying fan failure |
FAE3 | Drying fan failure |
Kitchenaid Dishwasher Troubleshooting
Dishwasher is not operating properly
Dishwasher does not run or stops during a cycle
- Is the door closed tightly and latched?
- Is the right cycle selected?
- Is there power to the dishwasher? Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped? Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the problem continues, call an electrician.
- Has the motor stopped due to an overload? The motor automatically resets itself within a few minutes. If it does not restart, call for service.
- Is the water shutoff valve (if installed) turned on?
- It is normal for certain cycles to repeatedly pause for several seconds during the main wash.
Clean light is flashing
- Call for service.
Dishwasher will not fill
- Is the overfill protection float able to move up and down freely? Press down to release.
Dishwasher seems to run too long
- The dishwasher can run up to 3¹⁄₂ hours depending on soil level, water temperature, cycles and options. Is the water supplied to the dishwasher hot enough? The dishwasher runs longer while heating water. Is the dishwasher cycle time within the cycle times? See cycle sections wash times. A delay automatically occurs in some wash and rinse cycles until the water reaches the proper temperature.
Water remains in the dishwasher
- Is the cycle complete?
Detergent remains in the covered section of the dispenser
- Is the cycle complete?
- Is the detergent lump-free? Replace detergent if necessary.
- Is the dispenser door blocked by dishes or cookware when the dishwasher door is closed?
White residue on the front of the access panel
- Was too much detergent used?
- Is the brand of detergent making excess foam? Try a different brand to reduce foaming and eliminate buildup.
Odor in the dishwasher
- Are dishes washed only every 2 or 3 days? Run a rinse cycle once or twice a day until you have a full load.
- Does the dishwasher have a new plastic smell? Run a vinegar rinse as described in “Dishwasher Care.”
Condensation on the kitchen counter (built-in models)
- Is the dishwasher aligned with the countertop? Moisture from the vent in the dishwasher console can form on the counter. Refer to the Installation Instructions for more information.
Grinding, grating, crunching or buzzing sounds
- A hard object has entered the wash module (on some models). When the object is ground up, the sound should stop. If the noise persists after a complete cycle, call for service.
Cleaning the Dishwasher
Clean the exterior of the dishwasher with a soft, damp cloth and mild detergent. If your dishwasher has a stainless steel exterior, a stainless steel cleaner is recommended.
Clean the interior of the dishwasher, with a paste of powdered dishwasher detergent and water or use liquid dishwasher detergent on a damp sponge to clean the cooled-down interior.
A white vinegar rinse may remove white spots and film. Vinegar is an acid, and using it too often could damage your dishwasher.
Put 2 cups (500 mL) white vinegar in a glass or dishwasher-safe measuring cup on the bottom rack. Run the dishwasher through a complete washing cycle using an air-dry or an energy-saving dry option. Do not use detergent. Vinegar will mix with the wash water. If you have a drain air gap, check and clean it if the dishwasher isn’t draining well.